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Some paint terms are pretty straight forward. Others require a little more explanation. Whether you’re reading a Product Data Sheet or choosing different products, these definitions will help you understand what you are looking at.

1K vs 2K

1K products dry from solvent evaporation only. They may react by “lifting” or “cracking” when you put other products over them.

2K products dry from a chemical reaction after being mixed with second component. This makes them much more durable. Dried 2K products have a very low risk of a reaction when you put other products over them.

Activator, Hardener, and Catalyst

These terms are used to describe the component that causes a chemical reaction in 2K products. While they technically describe different chemicals, the terms are often used interchangeably. 2K products will take either a hardener, or an activator, or a catalyst.

Acrylic

Acrylic means a product is made from synthetic resin instead of a naturally occurring one. It can refer to many different products. When used to describe lacquer, enamel, or even latex house paint, it lets you know that you are getting the highest quality version of those products. All urethanes, epoxies, and polyesters are acrylic.

DTM

DTM stands for direct-to-metal. This means a product will stick to bare metal. It doesn’t always mean that it’s good protection for large areas of metal though. It's best to refer to the “substrates” section of the tech sheet for recommendations on metal treatment.

Flash Off Time

This is the minimum amount of time you must wait before you can apply another coat.

HS vs MS

HS stands for high solids. “Solids” are what’s left behind in your paint after it dries completely. HS paint has more solids than MS (medium solids) paint. This means it takes more coats of MS paint to get the job done.

Pot Life

Pot life is the amount of time that a product can be used after mixing.

Recoat Window

This is the maximum amount of time you have to spray another coat without sanding.

Solvent Resistant, Solvent Test

To check if the surface you want to paint is solvent resistant, put some Lacquer Thinner on a rag and wipe a small spot.  If the paint wipes off, it isnt solvent resistant.  It's best to strip it down to bare metal.

Wet-on-Wet Application

This means you don’t sand between coats. You still have to give “flash off time” between coats. However, you can wait as long as the “recoat window” allows and the paint will still stick.

 
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